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泡菜水第一

事見宋代僧人文瑩的<<玉壺清話>>及元代闕作者的<<饌史>>。說的是宋太宗趙光義的老師蘇易簡,此人乃銅山(今四川中江)人。一次太宗問他,世界上最好吃的是什么?而蘇易簡的回答已成經典,他說:“臣聞物無定味,適口者珍”,又說,非要讓他說的話,他認為泡菜水第一。原因是有次他喝醉了,半夜渴極起身,只見庭院中殘雪覆蓋著泡菜壇子,于是以雪洗手,又連喝了幾大杯泡菜水,頓時覺得“上界仙廚鸞脯鳳臘,殆恐不及。”蘇易簡講的道理早已成為共識。但今天看來這個典故中凸現出的是另兩樣東西:川人的率真性格和四川泡菜之妙。

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